Thursday, February 6, 2009
Sea Cat came out around 9:00 am to see if we wanted to do a tour with him and a couple from a German boat across the way. We didn't know too much about what was to transpire, but he said we would be out all day, needed good walking gear and a change of clothes. He has been running tours from his house for more than 20 years, specialising in nature walks and visits to out of the way people and places. He goes where the cruise ship passengers are not. The German couple turned out to be teachers on a one year sabatical, having sailed out from Germany via the Canaries. Our destination is Victoria Falls.
Sea Cat knows a huge number of people, and we stopped along the way for various visits. The first was with a small group of guys who were farming a plot in a valley where once there had been a large plantation. Sea Cat explained that they were descendants of the slaves who had been on the erstwhile plantation and had returned to claim the land for themselves. The independent Commonwealth of Dominica government encourages small scale agriculture, permitting squatting and facilitating the aquisition of title after five years working the land. We were served green cocunuts, drank the milk and ate the gelatinous young coconut flesh with slips of husk cut as scrapers.
Next stop is a small roadside bar. "Moonshine, moonshine" yells Sea Cat. We sample the local hooch, lemon and French Vanilla rums.
Tooting and calling, Sea Cat passes through the Rasta villages where, he told us, the people had been quite fierce in the pursuit of independence in 1976, but now were peace loving and friendly. Good people to have on your side, he said. We passed along the Atlantic shore, roaring surf pounding the boulder strewn black sand beaches, more rocks than sand. Eventually, after descending a very narrow steep track into the river valley, came to the abode of Moses and his small Rasta tribe at the head of the trail leading up to Victoria falls. About my age, Moses is famous and his picture is in a number of magazines and guides. He and his crew live simply and peacefully, gardening the land and being Rasta. He serves us an Ital lunch cooked over a fire in the cooking area after our strenuous trek up to the falls and back.
The hike is beautiful, clambering over the rocks and fording the stream at least five times, we get wet before arriving at the falls, my bathing suit still in the pack. Alicia is in beaded slippers, despite the warnings, but manages anyway. The falls are about 100 ft high, water cascading down into a small pool. The water drives a blasting wind as it hits the pool, forcing spray into our faces at high speed, making it hard to look towards it. Sea Cat dives into the pool and leads us across to te side closest to the torrent. He climbs the 20 ft rock and leaps into the tumult. Alicia climbs the rock too, but can't quite make the leap. I am desparately trying to keep my shorts up after deciding to keep my bathing suit dry as the change of clothes. I have removed the belt, and they drop to my knees at every chance. Sea Cat explains that the moonshine was to give us courage at the falls.
The tour goes on all day, stopping here and there to sample fruit, cinnamon, bay and visit with his friends, all of whom are deeply committed to a natural way of life.
A wonderful time had by all, and Alicia stiff and sore today.
Sea Cat came out around 9:00 am to see if we wanted to do a tour with him and a couple from a German boat across the way. We didn't know too much about what was to transpire, but he said we would be out all day, needed good walking gear and a change of clothes. He has been running tours from his house for more than 20 years, specialising in nature walks and visits to out of the way people and places. He goes where the cruise ship passengers are not. The German couple turned out to be teachers on a one year sabatical, having sailed out from Germany via the Canaries. Our destination is Victoria Falls.
Sea Cat knows a huge number of people, and we stopped along the way for various visits. The first was with a small group of guys who were farming a plot in a valley where once there had been a large plantation. Sea Cat explained that they were descendants of the slaves who had been on the erstwhile plantation and had returned to claim the land for themselves. The independent Commonwealth of Dominica government encourages small scale agriculture, permitting squatting and facilitating the aquisition of title after five years working the land. We were served green cocunuts, drank the milk and ate the gelatinous young coconut flesh with slips of husk cut as scrapers.
Next stop is a small roadside bar. "Moonshine, moonshine" yells Sea Cat. We sample the local hooch, lemon and French Vanilla rums.
Tooting and calling, Sea Cat passes through the Rasta villages where, he told us, the people had been quite fierce in the pursuit of independence in 1976, but now were peace loving and friendly. Good people to have on your side, he said. We passed along the Atlantic shore, roaring surf pounding the boulder strewn black sand beaches, more rocks than sand. Eventually, after descending a very narrow steep track into the river valley, came to the abode of Moses and his small Rasta tribe at the head of the trail leading up to Victoria falls. About my age, Moses is famous and his picture is in a number of magazines and guides. He and his crew live simply and peacefully, gardening the land and being Rasta. He serves us an Ital lunch cooked over a fire in the cooking area after our strenuous trek up to the falls and back.
The hike is beautiful, clambering over the rocks and fording the stream at least five times, we get wet before arriving at the falls, my bathing suit still in the pack. Alicia is in beaded slippers, despite the warnings, but manages anyway. The falls are about 100 ft high, water cascading down into a small pool. The water drives a blasting wind as it hits the pool, forcing spray into our faces at high speed, making it hard to look towards it. Sea Cat dives into the pool and leads us across to te side closest to the torrent. He climbs the 20 ft rock and leaps into the tumult. Alicia climbs the rock too, but can't quite make the leap. I am desparately trying to keep my shorts up after deciding to keep my bathing suit dry as the change of clothes. I have removed the belt, and they drop to my knees at every chance. Sea Cat explains that the moonshine was to give us courage at the falls.
The tour goes on all day, stopping here and there to sample fruit, cinnamon, bay and visit with his friends, all of whom are deeply committed to a natural way of life.
A wonderful time had by all, and Alicia stiff and sore today.
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